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专家称“养胃”食品是“挂羊头卖狗肉”
发布时间: 2014-12-22 - 标签: , , - 浏览 1,853 次

新华食品北京12月22日电(娄奕娟)面对一哄而起的“养胃”功能食品,不少消费者感到茫然:这些“养胃”食品真有养胃功效吗?中国食品商务研究院研究员朱丹蓬称,所谓养胃食品是典型的“挂羊头卖狗肉”。

“养胃说”并无权威依据

一打开南方黑芝麻集团股份有限公司的官网首页,最新版的黑芝麻乳广告就开始自动播放。除了继续请来演员蒋雯丽助阵,广告还提出了“饿了要养胃,先喝黑营养”的新口号。今年以来,“养胃”食品大军不断扩容,而提出“养胃说”,黑芝麻乳并非第一家。今年上半年,江中集团曾因猴姑饼干的“养胃”功效深陷舆论泥沼。虽然备受质疑,但江中猴姑饼干已被众多企业跟风。在京东商城,与猴姑相似产品的品牌已有七八种,均声称以猴头菇为主要原料,具有“养胃”作用。

除了猴姑饼干、黑芝麻乳,市场还有不少养胃茶、天然本草植物饮料打出了“养胃”旗号。这些“养胃”食品的一个明显特征就是强调原材料的营养。

江中集团曾发布声明自辩,称猴头菇有养胃功效在《中华人民共和国卫生部药品标准》有明确的记载。该声明同时表示,“一种食材有没有功效是要经过科学界定的,乌鸡、山楂都是食材,但它们同时又有功效,也是药材。中国文化里的药食同源就是这个道理。” 目前,南方黑芝麻乳并未提供“养胃”说的具体理由。唯一可作为解释的是其官网“黑芝麻与健康”栏目内提及的营养知识——一段不足百字的中医观点。主要原料的微量元素含量高,是否就意味着工业化生产的食品营养价值高?中国农业大学食品学院营养与食品安全系副教授范志红说,根据去年起我国正式实施的《预包装食品营养标签通则》,预包装食品应按照规定标示营养标签,营养成分种类及其含量的多少可以直接看标签内的数据,而非简单的原材料营养物质比较结果。

根据营养标签,食品标注的营养价值及声称有明确的含量要求。以钙为例,每100克的食品中,钙能达到一个正常成年人每天所需量的15%,才能标注食品含有钙或者是钙来源;达到30%及以上才能说“富含钙”。

那么,以我国药品法典或是中医典籍中的说法作为支撑,是否能够令人信服?范志红认为,宣称自己的养胃功效,只靠一份材料来证明不能服众,更需要更权威的实验数据来支撑。

和君咨询集团合伙人夏忠群则表示,目前食品的“养胃”功效更多的只是民间传统说法,大多无法进行科学定量实验。

产品身份模糊打“擦边球”

不属于保健食品,却声称能“养胃”,这是现有“养胃”食品的共同点。根据《食品安全法》有关条例,普通食品不能宣称具有保健功能及疾病预防功能。即便是特殊膳食用食品,虽然其产品配方设计有明确的针对性,但其目的是为目标人群提供营养支持,不具有预防疾病、治疗等功能,食品标签不应涉及疾病预防、治疗功能。

范志红直接对“养胃”的概念提出质疑:“在我国保健食品的27个功能中,并没有‘养胃’的说法。‘养胃’既不属于保健概念,也不属于医疗概念,更不是营养概念,它究竟是什么概念?要养到什么程度才能算养胃?”

范志红认为,目前“养胃说”的具体含义、标准和评价标准都不明晰,食品能“养胃”更多的是给消费者一份心理安慰。

中国食品商务研究院研究员朱丹蓬则表示,企业为寻求新的盈利增长点,推出了众多功能性食品。这些功能性产品强调食品的某些功效,模糊了“食字号”和“健字号”之间的界线,明显在打政策的“擦边球”。

朱丹蓬认为,立法滞后性使得相关法律法规跟不上食品产业的发展速度,一方面是法律法规的缺失,一方面是消费者的信息不对等,没有了约束,企业在逐利性的驱动下屡屡打出“擦边球”。

“企业靠打‘擦边球’很难保持基业长青。”夏忠群表示,单纯或主要依靠这一策略,随着市场的推广,消费者发现其效果不如预期后形成的不良口碑,反而有可能损害之前的品牌形象。

食品单纯强调营养功效不可取

利用现代人追求健康的心理,企业夸大宣称食品的营养和功效。这并非个别现象,目前甚至有越演越烈的趋势。比如,各类猴姑饼干称猴头菌富含氨基酸和多糖成分;又比如南方黑芝麻乳,除了在新版广告提出“养胃说”,旧版广告还曾通过黑芝麻与白色食品进行简单的比照,凸显“黑营养”的观点。

在介绍这一食品行业“怪现状”时,朱丹蓬用了形象的说法:猴头菇有养胃的功能,就意味着加入猴头菇的饼干有养胃功能,这是典型的“挂羊头卖狗肉”‘现象;某饮料名字容让人误认为一罐饮料中含有6个核桃的营养,这种“偷龙转凤”的做法容易误导消费者,也是不合适的行为。 “就品牌形象的塑造来看,一味强调食品的功效和营养并不可取。”夏忠群表示,求助于宣传噱头,从某种程度上来说反映的是企业整体运作能力较弱的事实。夏忠群认为,属于快消品的食品,从全球范围来看实际上处于产能过剩的状态,单纯强调产品本身很容易被替代,企业也很难获得持续性的发展优势。他建议,企业在做好产销和服务的同时,可在品牌塑造上赋予物质产品以精神属性、文化内涵或心理暗示,提高目标群体对品牌、产品的忠诚度,赢得产品溢价空间,企业才能获得可持续性发展的空间。

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