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有机食品:“零污染”多是营销噱头
发布时间: 2014-08-04 - 标签: , - 浏览 2,093 次

2013年中国有机食品销售额已超过50亿美元,市场的潜力吸引了甚至没有农业经验的资本逐利而来。然而,有机食品的真相是:科学试验并未证实有机食品更“安全、健康和营养”的说法,所谓“零污染”更多是营销的噱头,而且,脆弱的生态环境包括空气、土壤和水质的持续恶化,使有机农产品无法独善其身。

    安全还是口味

    64岁的北京市民姜亚文,几乎每个周末都会乘坐公交车,到北京有机农夫市集(下称农夫市集)采购果蔬肉蛋。2013年,姜亚文在农夫市集一共消费2.7万多元,月均约2300元,这差不多占到她月收入的60%。

“我退休金不多,压缩其他方面的消费,挤出来用在买菜上。”她说,钱花得值,现在一家人都愿意在家吃饭,吃着放心。

像姜亚文一样,出于对食品安全的担忧,中国城市居民特别是中产阶层中有机食品的拥趸呈明显增长趋势。宣称“拒绝化学品”的有机食品,可谓一击而中消费者不安的心。“不使用化肥、农药、添加剂”就等于“安全、健康”,是许多消费者对有机食品的主要甚至全部认识。

有机食品并非中国人的特殊偏好。不同的是,欧美消费者对有机食品的钟爱,主要不是源于食用安全,而是生态环保与营养口感。事实上,安全,根本无法成为有机食品的主诉点。

    “零污染”噱头

    有机农业对自然环境要求非常之高,但适合有机生产的土壤不容易找到。现实中,经营有机农场往往要先改良土壤。

某有机农场总裁张同贵说,申请一个种植类的有机认证,要经过3年土壤改良,这样也只能将农药、化肥的残余量降解七八成,“不可能百分百全部降解”。

而即使有机农场环境达标,由于环境中残留的化学物质也不可能完全清除,有机食品也不能保证“零污染”。

2014年1月,加拿大食品检验局发布了近两年的检测结果:45.8%的有机果蔬含有农药残留,1.8%残留超标。检测人员认为,农药残留可能是从邻近的非有机农场漂移,或者通过土壤和地下水转移过来的,也可能是在储运过程中与非有机产品的接触中获得的。

这说明,有机农业和养殖业都无法完全回避环境的影响,因为空气、土壤和水都是可以移动的,“零污染”不存在。消费者追求百分百的零残留,就是一个死结。但消费者的认识终究是来自有机企业的宣传,很多时候,有机食品被描绘得太好。

还有肥料问题。几乎所有有机农场都承诺在耕种过程中不使用农药和化肥,使用“有机肥”。所谓“有机肥”,大多就源自于饲养动物的粪便。然而,在现实中,饲养动物的粪便被收集后,经过几个月堆积、发酵的腐熟过程,才能用到田里,因为粪便中可能含有致命性病菌和寄生虫虫卵,如果腐熟不充分,就会产生污染。那些使用发酵不足12个月的粪肥的有机农场,与使用熟肥的农场相比,大肠杆菌的污染可高达19倍。

    更营养假说

    至今,科学界尚未拥有足够确凿的科学证据,支持有机食品更有营养的观点。至少,国内外已有的多项研究表明,有机、散养和圈养鸡所产的蛋之间,营养价值并无区别。2009年《美国临床营养学杂志》就刊登了一篇论文称,单从营养角度看,有机食品同常规食品差不多。研究人员发现,在氨基酸、脂肪酸、糖、维生素、矿物元素等13种营养成分中,有10种有机食品和常规食品中的含量没有明显差异;两者只是在3种维生素的含量上略有不同,且是因为肥料使用方式不同、收获时间不同、成熟度不同所致。

争论在继续。然而,大多数有机食品生产者和消费者已经形成“天然的东西就是好的”成见。事实上,有机农业的初衷在于:减少化肥、农药对环境的污染,以补偿生态环境,而不是像中国消费者追逐的“最安全、健康的食品”。

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