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抹茶食品原料可能并非真正抹茶粉 商家大多使用绿茶粉掺杂香精

抹茶蛋糕、抹茶饼干……市面上各式各类抹茶味食品随处可见,而抹茶口味也是近几年在国内食品市场兴起,颜色清新而带着淡淡茶香味尤其受到年轻群体的喜爱。不过,这类抹茶食品却并非百分之百添加抹茶粉所制成,不少商家会为了节约成本而使用价格更便宜的绿茶粉,为保证色泽和口感还会添加香精和色素。

抹茶食品和抹茶粉配料标注大多为绿茶粉

近日,笔者走访椒江部分超市发现不少抹茶食品,种类从饼干、蛋糕到奶茶样式非常丰富,但是大部分抹茶食品配料中却多标注有绿茶粉而不是抹茶粉。比如其中一款“巧酥酥抹茶味曲奇装饰饼干”,配料表中包含小麦粉、人造奶油、食用香精香料、绿茶粉等。一家奶茶店也推出了一款抹茶红豆味奶茶,笔者向店员询问里面是抹茶粉还是绿茶粉时,店员回答,“就是茶叶粉配的,抹茶粉应该和绿茶粉一样吧。”

那网购市场上的抹茶粉原料是否百分之百为天然抹茶呢?

笔者在购物网站上输入“抹茶粉”关键字,随即跳出1.12万件商品。500克的抹茶,价格在几十元至几千元不等,一罐150克左右的抹茶粉价格在二三十元最多。其中一款500克装标明“正品保证抹茶粉”,在过去的一个月内,评价中有消费者表示颜色发乌,味道很浓。配料表中却标明主要原料是茶叶粉,里面还添加了乳糖、微晶纤维素以及食用香精。

抹茶粉不等同于绿茶粉

那抹茶粉和绿茶粉到底有什么区别呢?

抹茶和绿茶粉在原材料上就体现出差别,生产抹茶的茶树,一般都是菽北、朝日、朝露,树种一般从抹茶工艺成熟的日本引进。品质最好的抹茶茶叶,要等到五月才能采摘。延长采摘的时间,是为了减少嫩茶中苦涩的茶多酚。另外还要进行遮光处理,盖上黑网以过滤掉阳光中的紫外线。优质的抹茶呈现出翠绿色,经过蒸烘,会产生一种独特类似海苔的香味。这是茶多酚褪去后,氨基酸和叶绿素在茶叶中大量沉淀的结果。再经过冷却、烘焙、筛选等多道工序,最后用石磨缓缓磨出翠绿色的粉末,这些粉末就是抹茶。而绿茶粉的研磨工艺则很简单,使用的是金属粉碎机,采用瞬间粉碎法进行粉碎处理,颗粒比抹茶要粗得多,粉末也不够细腻。

从口感和营养成分上去区分,绿茶粉色泽黄绿,抹茶粉则色泽翠绿。仔细闻绿茶粉是普通的茶叶味儿,而抹茶则带有一股独特的海苔香味。口感上,绿茶粉吃起来比较苦涩,类似于把茶叶嚼碎以后干涩的味道。而抹茶粉味道鲜醇,基本没有苦涩感。绿茶粉所含茶碱和咖啡因较高,而抹茶则是高氨基酸,高蛋白质,高叶绿素,低茶碱和低咖啡因,营养成分更高。

专家提醒颜色过于翠绿可能存在问题

原料和工艺的差别,也就造成普通茶叶粉和抹茶价格上的天壤之别。业内人士表示,一般抹茶平均价格在每500克2000元左右;普通绿茶粉价格则在每500克几十元到几百元不等。

目前国内市场上在售的抹茶粉大都是由绿茶粉冒充的。这种绿茶粉大部分是由一些卖不掉的陈年茶叶研磨之后制成,没有多少营养成分,所以销售价格极低。在经过暴晒以后,这种绿茶粉的颜色会变淡,所以很多商家往里面添加了色素来冒充抹茶粉。而这种色素抹茶在暴晒以后,颜色是不会改变的。

中国农业科学院茶叶研究所茶叶加工工程研究中心副主任林智曾表示,茶叶研究所做过关于食品中添加抹茶的试验,发现无论是绿茶粉还是抹茶,在烘焙糕点、饮料等的运用上难度最大,而在冰淇淋、冷鲜奶、冷面等方面的运用则相对容易些。由于绿茶本身是很容易氧化的产品,经过高温烘焙后,就会颜色发黄,香气变淡。在食品加工过程中,可以通过添加维生素等工艺来进行护色,不过即使进行护色工艺,抗氧化时间也非常有限。而添加了人工色素就要另当别论了,所以过于鲜亮的抹茶可能存在一定问题。

尤其是这几年随着抹茶的大热趋势,抹茶类食品的比重也迅速上升。但是并非所有抹茶食品都是添加了抹茶粉制成,所以专家提醒如果看到颜色特别鲜艳,呈现翠绿色的糕点或者饮料,很有可能添加了色素,不建议大量食用。

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